Carbon fiber build plates are a direct replacement for glass and polycarbonate plates, install them as you would normally.
No. Carbon fiber build plates are not compatible with inductive sensors.
Yes, it is designed specifically for the Ender 3.
Yes, it is designed specifically for the Cr-10 and Cr-10S.
Start at the higher end of the filament manufacturer's recommended build plate temperature. Thoroughly wipe the surface clean of oils and debris using a cloth with a cleaning agent that doesn't leave behind any residue, such as Isopropyl alcohol, acetone, degreaser (we find the best results with degreaser). There should be no need to apply any sort of adhesive, once the print is finished and the build plate cools down completely the print should slide right off. If you find that your prints are having adhesion issues, here are a few more things to try:
1. Set the first layer print speed to 10-20mm/s
2. Increase the first layer material extrusion rate to 105-125%
3. Try printing with a brim with 10-30 stepovers
4. Increase the first layer print bed temp to filament manufacturer's max recommended temp.
5. Increase the first layer nozzle temp to filament manufacturer's max recommended temp.
6. Double check your cooling fan is turned off for first 4 layers (though polycarbonate and nylon+cf prefer fan always off)
Carbon fiber build plates are a direct replacement for glass and polycarbonate plates, print on them as you would normally.
Carbon Fiber has excellent thermal conductivity so there should not be any noticeable difference across the various thicknesses (1.0-6.0mm).
The build plate is rated for use up to 130˚C or 266˚F
Each build plate has a gloss surface on one side and a matte surface on the other. This allows for fine tuning the build adhesion for a given material. Too much adhesion and the print can become damaged when trying to remove it. Too little adhesion and the print will warp or fail all together. The matte surface provides the perfect amount of adhesion for TPE and TPU while the gloss side is great for PLA, PETG, Nylon etc.
The nozzle can print up to 300˚C or 572˚F
We recommend degreaser, however Isopropyl alcohol, window cleaner, and acetone work well too. Never use a metal scraper - you should not need to use scrapers of any sort.
Any materials that print with a bed temperature less than 130˚C or 266˚F.
Yes, our build-plates are designed to be compatible with all types of fiber filled filaments.
The recommended temperature varies depending on the filament manufacturer. We suggest starting in the middle of the manufacturer's recommended range, usually around 200˚C at the nozzle and 50˚C at the bed.
First, thoroughly clean build plate and print onto the"Gloss Surface". The nozzle temperature should be in the middle range of the manufacturer's recommendation (usually around 245-255C), and build plate near the upper end. The cooling fan should be off for the first 10 layers, and low for subsequent layers (if needed). For your first layer, the nozzle temperature should be increased 10 degrees and speed set between 10-20mm/second.
Unlike of ABS, TPU tends to stick too well to a print surface making it difficult to remove. The "Matte Surface"of the build plate is great for providing a healthy middle ground for TPU. The nozzle temperature should be in the middle range of the manufacturer's recommendation, and build plate near the upper end. Cooling fan should be off for the first layer and high/max for subsequent layers. If you have a bowden style extruder and are running into filament jams, slow the print speed down, reduce retraction speed and distance, and can turn retractions off all together if the problem persists. For the first layer, the nozzle temperature should be increased 10 degrees and the print speed set between 10-20mm/second.
Wood filament can cause standard size (0.4mm) nozzles to clog due to the tiny wood fibers getting lodged in the nozzle. Switching to a larger nozzle size (0.6 or 0.8mm) will help prevent this. Print onto the "Gloss Surface". The nozzle temperature should be in the middle range of the manufacturer's recommendation, and build plate near the upper end. The cooling fan should be off for the first layer, and high/max for subsequent layers. The first layer nozzle temperature should be increased by 10 degrees and print speed set between 10-20mm/second.
No. All custom build plates are made to order, and therefore cannot be returned. So please confirm your specs before ordering.
All our build plates are pressed between two machined plates of steel ensuring perfectly planar surfaces on every plate.
Each build plate has a gloss surface finish on one side and a matte surface on the other. This allows for fine tuning the build adhesion for a given material.
With proper use and care, a carbon fiber build plate should last for thousands of prints. We have yet to decommission a build plate in the last 3 years of commercial printing!
- First-class mail (3 days) - Free
Aside from USPS First-class mail - Domestic, all shipping methods are insured.
*Please note that First-class mail - International does not have a guaranteed delivery time frame and could take over a month. DHL Express is highly recommended for all international orders. If you have any questions about your shipping, use the provided tracking information or reach out to us using our contact form.
If your package was shipped with insurance then a replacement will be sent via the same shipping method. You can choose to pay for an upgrade to a different shipping method if preferred. An insurance claim can not be filed on USPS First Class International mail until it has been one month since the ship date. Once a package has left our facility it is the responsibility of the shipping company to deliver. All inquiries must be taken up with them. There is no legal recourse if the tracking shows your package as "Delivered." View our complete Shipping Policy Here.
Yes, you will be responsible for international duties and taxes upon delivery of your shipment. Please contact us before ordering if you would like to pre-pay duties and taxes.